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Showing posts with label Interview with a Designer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Interview with a Designer. Show all posts

Sunday, 3 March 2013

Interview with a designer: Alan Dart

This month's interview was amazing. I got to interview my toy knitting hero, the legendary Alan Dart. (I'm not already gushing too much am I? I'll try very hard to be cool, calm and collected here on the blog but just know that inside I'm secretly babbling like a fangirl).
Image Credit: Alan Dart, Simply Knitting
In many of the places I inhabit in cyber space, I go somewhat incognito. I hate having my photo taken except for family purposes at the best of times and once nearly strangled an uncle who tried to videotape my wedding against my express order (that's a story for another day though). This little guy, The Party Penguin has been known to bravely stand in for me and preserve my "air of mystique" (thanks to Alan for the lovely phrase). The photo above is one of the few photos of Alan existing on the internet as he admits to a similar aversion to being photographed. He told me he keeps well away from cameras.
Party Penguin: Pattern available for purchase here.
Party Penguin is one of the first Alan Dart Patterns I can remember owning. He's also one of the first Alan Dart patterns I knitted. This is actually Party Penguin Mark II as I had previously made one as a gift for my daughter's ballet teacher. This little guy kicked off a life long fascination with Alan's knitted toys and an abiding appreciation for Alan's design and pattern writing skills.

So here's my conversation with Alan. My questions are in bold with Alan's answers after them.

It's somewhat unusual to find a male knitter firstly; male knitwear designers are even more unusual and male knitting designers who make toys are an even rarer breed. What's your background in knitting like and how to you come to design toys specifically? 
(Note: this is a compilation of lots of answers Alan gave to questions about his childhood crafting habits, his time at Art college and his early work for various magazines and on children's TV in the UK).
I can't think of any specific thing that started my interest in handicrafts, but I've always made things and my mother was very willing to pass on her skills and to encourage me. As a child I made glove puppets and string puppets; knitted clothes for my teddy bear; Christmas decorations (starting in the school Summer holidays!); cellophane stained glass windows; paper sculpture (I had an exhibition entitled 'London' for open day at school, which included Eros, Buckingham Palace and a Beefeater).

I first learnt to knit on a machine when I was four years old. My mother had a very basic Passap machine, and I asked her to teach me how to use it. Later on I learnt to knit by hand (probably when I was about six years old), and I can't really remember a time when I couldn't knit. When I was a teenager I bought a Knitmaster knitting machine from a catalogue, on which you could knit fair-isle patterns, and I started to make sweaters for myself, so I suppose that was the point I realised I had a talent for it. I didn't particularly want to design clothes, but the choice of courses at art colleges was very limited when I was young, so I opted for fashion because this involved working with fabric and yarn. I also designed shoes and studied textile printing at college.

One of the tutors at college was a freelance designer who had worked at the BBC, so when I left college he asked me to help him. I worked for him for a year, and then started up my own one-off machine-knitted sweater business. During my first job, some of the people who came for fittings noticed the sweaters I was wearing and asked me if I would make knitwear for them. The toys came later. I can't exactly remember what my first toy was, but I think it was when I contributed to partwork magazines (published by Marshall Cavendish and Eaglemoss), as their titles covered a wide range of handicrafts and I was willing to give anything a try. Apart from fabric and knitted toys I designed features on patchwork, fabric painting, papercraft, appliqué, embroidery, salt-dough modelling, you name it.

My first job for a magazine was to design 'his and hers' machine-knitted outfits for Danny la Rue for a feature that appeared in the now defunct Reveille! Much later, the editor of Mother magazine introduced me to Anne Wood, who was then the children's editor on TV AM, and she asked me to demonstrate crafts for children on the Rub-a-Dub-Tub programme that she produced. After that she started Ragdoll Productions and I designed more crafts for Pob's Programme, which she produced for Channel 4. 

When I first discovered your work it was when you were resident knitted toy designer for the English Women’s Weekly (which we get here in Australia).
I was under contract as the resident toy designer for Woman's Weekly for 18 years, but when the current editor took over about 4 years ago she decided that she didn't want to feature so many toys and terminated my contract. That is what prompted me to start my website, although I'd been thinking about it for quite a while. 
(and an aside from me: I wonder if the editor ever regrets this decision? I'm sure that people at Simply knitting where Alan is now the resident toy designer are glad to have him on their staff!)
Part of my treasured collection of Alan Dart character patterns from old English Women's Weeklys. Kipper the Dog, Thomas the Tank Engine, Shaun the Sheep and Gromit and the two Beatrix Potter Collections. And no, I will not photocopy them and send them to you. I respect Alan's copyright of these (See our also our discussion of copyright issues  below).
At this stage, a lot of your work was produced knitted versions of licensed characters where you had to reproduce a known design.
This was because I designed these toys for two companies. Initially Intarsia UK, and then TDB, both of whom bought the very expensive licenses that allowed them to sell licensed character toy leaflets, and they often gave Woman's Weekly one character from a collection to publicise the other leaflets. The licenses were for a fixed period, so they have all now expired, which is why the patterns can no longer be sold. I still own the copyright to the patterns (as I do to all my designs), but would need to buy a license for each character collection before being allowed to offer them for sale, and this isn't something I could afford to do.
Batch two of my precious Alan Dart Patterns, Three Little Kittens, The Bridal Bunnies, Angelica and Tommy from Rugrats, Noddy and Paddington Bear. I swear these are among the first things I'd save if my house was on fire!
These days I subscribe to Simply Knitting mainly for a new Alan Dart pattern each month,
Thank you!

But you seem now mainly to create your own characters.
I prefer to do this because I can then offer the patterns for sale on my website without having a licensing company involved.

What triggers a new design for you?
I love Swedish and American folk art, but I'm not consciously inspired by anything specific.

I work out a whole year's features at a time, and tend to use the seasons to dictate the subjects. Of course, having been designing for so many years it's getting harder each year to think up something for Christmas, Easter and Halloween that I haven't already done in the past.
Jultomar and Teeny Tomte. The Jultomar are one Alan's most popular Christmas patterns. I haven't made one of these yet but have all the yarn sitting there to make one for next Christmas. Image credit: Alan Dart
Is it easier to design a toy based on an existing character or on a new idea?
I suppose it's easier to write a pattern for one of my own designs because the licensed characters weren't originally designed with the intention that they were to be knitted, so some of the details are tricky to represent in yarn.
Doctor and Nurse. I'm going to make one of these for my future Doctor Daughter - sort of a hybrid of the Doctor and the nurse seeing as her usual Doctor uniform is a cute little dress along with her stethoscope. Image credit: Alan Dart

Is copyright a bigger issue now than it was 20 years ago?
I've always retained copyright to my designs, and this is how I can sell them (apart from the licensed character patterns) via my website. The vast majority of people are very honest and respectful of my work, but there are still quite a few people who think that they have the right to copy a designer's work and sell it to make a profit for themselves. They use the excuse that it's 'out of print' or 'vintage', but copyright exists until 70 years after the holder's death, and I'm still very much alive (albeit verging on vintage)! Copyright infringement is the same as theft, and now home computers are more common than they were 20 years ago the instances of illegal duplication have multiplied greatly. Most hosting companies are covered by the Digital Millennium Copyright Act, so I am able to file a report and have any offending listings removed, but it takes a great deal of time to keep on top of the infringements and protect my property.
Dickensian Mice, Party Penguins, The magic Roundabout characters and Fred Flinstone. I really love Alan's little bite sized toys, mice, hamsters, bunnies and of course Party Penguins
The beauty of knitted toys for me is the three dimensional sculptural element (not to mention the squishy cuddly element and the sheer cuteness factor). Unlike a lot of other toy designers who create toys to be knitted in the round, you design your toys as a series of pieces to be knitted flat and later sewn up. Is there a particular reason you design this way?
I actually don't like knitting in the round, and quite a few people write to me to check that my patterns are knitted flat before buying because they feel the same way. A lot of the pieces in my designs are very tiny, and wouldn't be suitable to knit on a circular needle, and I find that seams add structure to the toys. In addition, because some of the openings are quite small, I often stop sewing a seam a little way from the opening, then stuff the piece, before joining the remainder of the seam. It wouldn't be possible to do this if the piece had been knitted in the round. I also really like sewing up and finishing off, and find the knitting bit quite boring unless there is some interesting shaping occurring every few rows. That's why I always hated making sweaters ..... having to knit 80 rows over the same old stitches! Give me a break!

What's the actual process you following when creating a new design?
I draw the toy actual size and then use a tape measure to take 3D measurements from this drawing, which I then convert to stitches and rows and write the pattern. I can't easily describe exactly how I devise the pattern, but I'm able to imagine the toy in 3D and can turn it around in my head, and the rest is down to years of experience. I don't experiment and jot down notes as I go along, but write the complete pattern for each piece of a toy first and then knit it. I was never taught how to write a pattern for a figure but just worked out my own method, so I don't know if this is how other people do it. I just like the challenge of creating complex shapes by simply increasing, decreasing and knitting darts, and I find writing the pattern the most interesting part of my job.

Do have any particular tricks to help you visualise how to create a 3D object from flat knitted pieces?
I don't have any trick, but I've always been able to visualise items in 3D and turn them round in my mind. I don't make lots of sketches ..... just one, full size, that I use to take measurements before working out the pattern.
The Unobjectionable Cat made for my friend Louise from Alan's three Little Kittens Pattern

What’s a typical day in your working life like?
There isn't really a typical day. I'm either working out a pattern, or knitting, or sewing up, or typing out a finished pattern, or checking the proof pages for the next Simply Knitting feature. Whilst doing any of these I need to answer the many emails that come in via the contact page of my website, and I try to do this as quickly as possible, so always break off from whatever I'm working on when I hear a message come in. At the end of each month I also need to prepare one of my patterns as a PDF file to add to the website, together with new text for the monthly site update. If I manage to get a bit ahead with my work I may even take a day or afternoon off to do a bit of gardening ..... so it's very varied.
Mr Clever hanging around at my work

And where do you work? I imagine your job lets you work from home rather than in an office.
(Alan lives in Cumbria in England) ...in a tiny hamlet, in farming country. Most of the properties are farms, with just a few houses, and there are no shops and no bus service. There is a tiny ghyll running along the side of the property, and we have red squirrels and lots of birds, with the occasional visit from a hare, pheasant or hedgehog. The house was built in the mid 1700s, and was originally surrounded by an orchard, which has now been turned into a garden. A stone-built double garage, attached to the house, has been converted into a studio.

And finally, do you knit in public and what reactions do you get from people if you do?
I don't have any reason to take my work outside, and always knit at my desk in my studio. I'm not knitting-obsessed, and it's my profession rather than a pastime.

I'd like to thank Alan for his enthusiasm and willingness to answer questions. It has been wonderful getting to know what makes him tick, so to speak. All photos are taken from Alan's website or are of my own work unless otherwise acknowledged. A complete list of all Alan's published patterns is available from his website and is updated monthly by the cool people who run the Alan Dart Group on Ravelry. If you want to read a bit more about Alan have a look at this interview with him on the Simply Knitting site.
Maybe I should finish sewing up this mouse?

Monday, 28 January 2013

Interview with a Designer: Anne Hanson of Knitspot

#a month of moments
28. Special
When I first started to tentatively explore the wonderful inter-linked fibre community that exists on the internet, I discovered that there were these wonderful things called knitting blogs. There were people just like me who knit things and photographed them then blogged / babbled about it. Any no-one (except possibly their significant others) thought they were weird. It was a revelation.

I'm not even sure how I first found the knitspot blog. Probably through something prosaic like typing "knitting blogs" into Google and following people's blogroll lists. Anyway once I found knitspot, I've kept coming back. Anne provides a fascinating doorway on her blog into her life as a working knitting designer and teacher.

So when I first decided on the wild idea of interviewing my favourite designers to find out what makes them tick, Anne just naturally ended up on the top of my wishlist. So, cue a massive virtual drum roll: Here is my first Interview with a Designer. 

Who or what is knitspot?
knitspot is the home on the web of knitting designer Anne Hanson. I just love the stuff Anne designs. Anne is an amazingly prolific designer. For example, there are currently 57 different lace shawl and wrap designs listed in the knitspot shop and 53 handknits for feet!  From practical accessories and wearable garments, through gorgeous socks (with a real emphasis on socks guys would wear and Unisex designs) and the most ethereal lacy shawls, I love them all. I decided that I'm sort of going to use this post in two ways; as well as finding out a little more about Anne the designer, I want to highlight some of my favourite knitspot patterns in the pictures accompanying it.
So this is Anne modelling my favorite cardigan design Blumchen. This cardigan is currently top of the "to make queue". It's the delicate combination of cables and lace and tailored shaping that all goes together to make it just perfect! (I just need to find the yarn to do it justice now).
A team effort
Anne doesn't work alone. She is ably assisted by her partner David (affectionately referred to as Mr Knitspot). David is a photographer extraordinaire and the driving force behind the knitspot clubs (More on those in a minute). He's even learned to knit. Erica also shares the load. Her blog handle is majordomo, which is a pretty good description for what I am sure is a jack of all trades / right hand man person / awesome assistant and generally the one who gets the odd things done job (no matter how odd). Clearly being a knitting designer of this calibre requires a team effort and a close knit team (Pardon the pun).
David modelling the Stromming hat
Clubbing with Knitspot
But knitspot is so much more than patterns. A couple of years ago, Anne and David set up two knitting clubs: Fall in Full Color and the Bare Naked Knit Club. Both of these are in their second offering. I'll let the knitspot team describe them.
Description:
"We will explore a variety of gorgeous fibers and colors through a series of intermediate fall and winter accessory projects. Each project is designed by Anne specifically for a custom yarn, to be portable and fun to knit, appropriate for gifting or keeping as a treat to oneself.

Yarns will include a selection of hand dyed choices from familiar knitspot favorites as well as new collaborating artists. A range of yarn weights and luxury fiber blends (mostly animal fibers) will be represented".
Hazeline: From the 2011 FIFC Club
Clubbing in the raw: exploring the beauty of knitting fiber the way nature made it

Description:
"In this club we’ll knit with a variety of fibers in their natural, undyed state to learn about and appreciate the unique characteristics of each. Yarns will be a surprise each month but will include a range of animal and/or vegetable fibers (sheep, goat, camelids, yak, silk, and cotton are some possibilities) in shades from cream to khaki to gray to chocolate—”sheepy” yarns if you will. Some will be soft, some will be lustrous, some will have stout, sturdy character that softens over time with long use (like vintage blue jeans). Yarn weights will vary; projects will focus on accessories, scarves, and shawls (possibly including a sock or baby item) that feature lace and openwork stitch patterns".
Waffle creams: One of 2012's Bare Naked Knitspot designs
So what do you get if you join a club? For starters, a pattern ebook each month. As well as the pattern, this includes the story behind the yarn and the genesis of the pattern. You get the yarn to knit the pattern. And not just any yarn, scrumptious, limited edition, rare one-of-a-kind yarn from indie dyers and fibre growers and manufacturers.You get access to a ravelry clubhouse where the clubbies share their progress, trials and missteps and finished projects. These are not just clubs, they are full fledged knitting communities with members near and far flung and worldwide. I'd love to join one of these clubs, but living down under in Australia makes it hard to justify the expense to my significant other.... I lamented this fact in the comments on the blog post announcing the sign ups for the Fall in First Color club for 2012 and got back a nice personal email from Mr Knitspot himself commiserating with me. Knitspot deserves a Knitting Community Building Award for these clubs at the very least. I think I'll have to invent one.
Twig and Leaf shawl
But wait, there's more - now with added yarn
And in really exciting breaking news, the clubs have given birth to a new venture for knitspot too. They are getting ready to launch their own barenaked wools yarn label! The first yarn yarn release will be a yarn that was created and shipped in last year’s barenaked club - the breakfast blend, described as a beautiful marriage of merino and alpaca in five natural shades and two yarn weights (fingering or 4ply and DK or 8ply). The fingering weight will have a bit of nylon added to strengthen it for sock knitting if desired (but not so much nylon that it gets in the way of making pretty lace that blocks beautifully). This is the yarn, the waffle cream socks pictured above were knitted from. This will be available for purchase from the knitspot shop very soon...
Here's a sneak peak. A squeeze me hat in progress with the new breakfast blend yarn. Isn't it a great name. Conjures up images of an amazing tea blend for me.
So I got the opportunity to ask Anne some questions which she very graciously answered. (I only wish that I asked more - her answers were so interesting).
Leaving
How did you end up becoming a full time knitwear designer?
Well, becoming a full-time designer is really a culmination of my life's work in all fiber pursuits. I learned to knit and sew as a very young child and have a deep background in garment construction, having worked for years as a stitcher, tailor, and draper/patternmaker in the garment and costuming trades. At a certain point my professional training collided with my knitting hobby and I received encouragement by designers I worked with to pursue some direction with knitting. By experimenting and developing my skills over a period of years, I emerged as a designer of knitwear.
Hillflowers
What is your favourite part of the creative process?
Hmm, I suppose that composing with stitch patterns to realize a concept I carry in my head is the most pleasurable and artistic part of the process for me. But I DO like writing up the instructions an awful lot as well; producing a good, usable pattern is a thing of beauty for me.
Slofock cap. (Tricky name)
What triggers a new design?
Oh, my designs come from a variety of sources; I keep all manner of images in my brain from moments that arrest me. Eventually, they become linked to a stitch motif or fabric surface or construction technique or a yarn that perfectly expresses the idea and away we go toward constructing it.
Pea Vines shawl
And one final question. I find that when I knit in public, I am a rarity here in Australia.
What reactions do you get to knitting in public?
Usually curiosity and storytelling; people either want to know what I'm doing or to share a story they hold about someone they know who knits, maybe even themselves in the past. Many men "come out of the closet" to me as knitters, having been taught by their grandmas in childhood. Haha, of course they always qualify that by assuring me they don't do it NOW. And I always tell them they should take it up again! For fellow travelers, my knitting is like watching a fire; they can't take their eyes off it and find it immensely relaxing.
Acknowledgements
Thanks to Anne Hanson for her time and generosity in helping get my new project off the ground. All photographs copyright knitspot / David Whitfield / Anne Hanson. And thanks to my creative new friends in the #a month of Facebook group for the encouragement to run and take a flying leap into the unknown. You never give someone the opportunity to say yes unless you ask them.